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Tuto 7: Split Lighting and high speed sync flash


Hi all,

We will discuss two techniques in this tutorial: the Split Lighting and flash photography in high speed sync mode (Auto FP).

Split Lighting

Nothing complicated here, it is quite the opposite! Split lighting (which can be translated as "divide the light") is a basic lighting of the portrait photography.
The aim of this technique is to illuminate the subject by only one of its sides.

In the first example below, the subject is illuminated by a remote flash located in front of his face and slightly above the subject. The flash is used without any diffusion or reflection accessories.


In this second example, the flash is located on the right of the subject, and is used in a softbox (or light box).



This technique allows simple but powerful lighting that brings more emotion than lightings yet more complex in terms of number of light sources (this is only my opinion :).

Flash with high speed sync (Auto FP)

It is important to note that the technique of split lighting alone can not immerse the subject completely in the dark as is the case in the previous two examples.
In fact, the original background of these two shots was perfectly white, it is playing with the settings of your camera and using a remote flash with high speed sync mode that you can achieve this result (very easy to get !).

High-speed sync mode (visible also under the name Auto-FP, FP Focal plane) enables the flash to operate at high speed synchronization. In general, a flash will synchronize with your shutter up to 1/200th of a second. With Auto-FP mode, it is possible to maintain this synchronization up to 1/320e second.

Pro cameras can run up 1/8000e second. Your flash in auto-FP can operate at speeds above 1/320e but its power will quickly become insufficient.
Typically, a flash in auto-FP is used to reduce shadows on a model during a shooting outside in bright light, we will see how to use this away to achieve the result of the second shot:

1) Camera in manual mode (to be able to adjust the ISO sensitivity, aperture and shutter speed).
2) Internal flash camera in controller mode only.
3) The remote flash (here, a SB-700 in a softbox) is configured on the camera to operate in auto-FP (1/320e)
4) I set the ISO at the minimum (ISO 200 on the Nikon D700).
5) I use a very small aperture (f/16)
6) The exposure time is set to 1/400th
7) The flash is positioned a few centimeters from the face of the model, completely on his right (our famous split lighting).
8) I manually adjust the flash output to achieve the desired result.

To understand the fact of working with such adjustments: on this case, taking a shot without flash, would be like photographing your shutter: we would get a completely black picture. On this basis, we can then flash to get just enough light to illuminate the subject.

Other tutorials on portrait lighting and the flash will quickly follow.
Damien